[tripandfall426Participant]

I sent you an email with a video that might be helpful.

 

 

When trying to Firm up I get “Error opening HIDBoot device: The specified device was not found

This happens on both my windows machine and macbook laptop. my built b.mini works on both of these computers.

• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by  tripandfall426.
• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by  tripandfall426.

[tripandfall426Participant]

I would suggest looking at my answer to another fellow member here last week at this link 🙂

 http://winkeyless.kr/forums/topic/about-the-colors-of-pcb/

[tripandfall426Participant]

My order number is #4583 From October  9th

What do you mean by clean around the connector parts? The usb mini controller looks perfectly fine in my eyes.

 

 

EDIT: http://imgur.com/a/CF0dA here I uploaded some more pics of the PCB. I fixed the solder point on the lower left diode but my computer is still not noticing any device when I connect the PCB.

• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by  tripandfall426.
• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by  tripandfall426.

[tripandfall426Participant]

 

 

I have added some pictures here of my b.pad pcb if you want to see how that looks. If you pay attention to my last three pictures, this part seems to be loosely connected or possibly broken off from solder connection, would this interfere with the pcb not working? I have not soldered anything on this pcb myself yet.

[tripandfall426Participant]

When I was checking the PCBs, I was only having one device connected at a time since I was using the same usb mini cable. b.mini was recognized by bootmapper and was pre programmed. b.pad was not recognized by bootmapper and was not recognized by my computer either.

[tripandfall426Participant]

You are displaying a picture of the acrylic with RGB diffuser case. These are what the layers mean.

1 (2T) is your top layer.

2 (3t) is your second layer which these top two layers combine with your pcb/switches. so in order of assembly you have switch, layer 2t, layer 3t and then your pcb. when you solder the switches, these all basically become one piece. This piece then sets on top of your RGB diffuser layer which is essentially your bottom case.

5 (5t) is your middle layer of the stand that prompts the case up.

5 (2t) goes on the outer sides of the stand piece above.

 

Top two layers are thinner than the RGB diffuser layer. The top layer is a millimeter or two smaller than the second layer so the second layer shows slightly around the edges almost like an outline. I hope this helps, I am not the owner or worker here just trying to explain to a fellow keyboard enthusiast.

 

I attached a picture my keyboard I ordered a couple months ago.

my colors:

2t matte frost

3t matte black

(RGB Diffuser layer)

5t matte frost (these bottom two are the stand piece that angles the keyboard)

2t matte black

• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by  tripandfall426.
• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by  tripandfall426.
• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by  tripandfall426.

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[tripandfall426Participant]

Thank you for looking into this. How strong of a USB power hub would you suggest for these keyboards? I do not own a USB power hub and do not know any information on their specifications and power output. I do not mind buying one since I feel it would be a useful item to own

[Author]

Posts