March 20, 2016 at 1:32 am #3186
I recently received a B.87 X2 (order #2996) and love it. It’s the best keyboard I have ever owned. Thank you!
However, some of the RGB lighting started malfunctioning a few days ago. When I go into BootMapper and change the number of LEDs, the first 8 (starting under the Esc key) are fine. When I change it to 10, the first 9 are fine, but the 10th SMD (under the Scroll Lock key) stays a solid color. When I change it to any number more than 10, the 10th SMD flickers and the bottom row cycles through the rainbow pattern at very high speed. The first 9 SMDs (Esc through F11) work perfectly no matter what.
Is this behavior the result of a bad SMD or resistor, or a soldering short? I’m going to take it back apart, but didn’t know exactly what to look for.March 21, 2016 at 11:09 am #3198
Could you tell me your order number to inspect deeply?
Could you show me the RGB LED setting of bootmapper client.
Hojin.yiMarch 21, 2016 at 12:18 pm #3199
Hello, my order is #2996.
Bootmapper settings attached, and here is the bottom of the board with those settings: http://imgur.com/a3bRA7x
If more than 10 LED are selected, the bottom row does that no matter what the settings are, even if rainbow is off.
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.March 21, 2016 at 9:51 pm #3208
1. Could you try to upload new firmware?(http://blog.winkeyless.kr/183)
2. Could you replace the RGB LEDs(9th and 10th)?
(If not, you may send your keyboard to me.)
Hojin.YiMarch 22, 2016 at 12:31 am #3209
I’m already using that firmware, so it has to be a bad SMD breaking the chain. I can replace them myself.
Would any 5050 WS2812B work, or should I just order them from your store? Would you suggest I replace the diodes too?March 22, 2016 at 9:23 am #3211
Yes, the model “WS2812B” would work.
If you want it, I can send you new one free.
But it will take a little longer since I will ship it by Postal parcel service.
If you find them around you, I’m willing to pay for them.
I think you don’t have to replace diodes which are affecting switches.
Hojin.YiMarch 22, 2016 at 11:03 am #3212
I can get some SMDs, so you definitely don’t have to send me one or pay for it. You would have to pay more on shipping than what one is worth. But I very much appreciate the offer.
I just wanted to ask you and make sure a bad SMD was the problem before starting to desolder parts. Thank you for your help and guidance!March 22, 2016 at 2:51 pm #3213
Thanks for your kindness.
I’m not sure whether it’s due to bad soldering or broken parts.
As you have seen in this FAQ board,
I’ve never met your problem.
If the led lights, I don’t think it’s due to bad soldering nor broken.
Hojin.YiMarch 23, 2016 at 12:16 am #3216
After replacing the W9 and W10 LEDs, the problem persists. Maybe the controller?
I think I’d like to send the keyboard to you to check out, since I’m out of ideas and do not want to risk damaging anything. I’m willing to pay whatever you’d charge for your services, and am fine with waiting however long you would need.March 23, 2016 at 12:29 am #3217
Okay I see.
You don’t have to spend any money but in-USA domestic delivery fee.
(I have a DHL bulk quota for international delivery.)
But last one more thing…
Could you take a pic of the problem with the keyboard?
And now we had better move to email to talk about your keyboard.
My email address is email@example.com.
P.S : It’s too late. Now I’m going to bed. Have a nice day^^May 4, 2016 at 2:41 pm #3522
I am currently experiencing the same problem. I have a B.mini X2. It’s been working fine since I assembled it but today the RGB LED W21 (the 13th one) started to fail.
The symptoms are very similar to that of Ubernooby. In rainbow flow mode if I set the number of LEDs to 13 or more, all the LEDs after 13 (including 13) go crazy cycling through the rainbow colors extremely fast. If I set the LEDs to 12 or less it works fine. LEDs 1-12 always work fine.
If I set it to a static single color mode it works fine as long as the LEDs were off right before. So if it went off->#0000FF it would be work, but #FF0000->#0000FF at least one LED from 13-16 has a wrong color.
I am very interested in how Ubernooby ended up resolving this issue. I just ordered some WS2812B LEDs, so I’ll try replacing LED #13 and potentially the ones after it too. I am not completely sure it’s the LEDs that are at fault though.
If you have any advice please do share it with me. I hope I don’t have to end up sending the keyboard back to you, I’ve grown to really love it!
Edit: I have made sure to use the latest firmware already in case you were wondering.May 9, 2016 at 11:42 am #3553
Here’s a video of the problem. It’s set to flow mode with a rainbow combination of colors. You can see how LEDs 12-16 flicker and change colors rapidly while the rest are fine.May 10, 2016 at 8:59 am #3563
I fixed the problem by replacing the faulty LED with a new one.
For future reference, it might be worth noting that I used a SK6812 LED and not a WS2812B. I believe the SK6812 is a newer clone of the WS2812B. However they both use the same protocol so they work well together.May 13, 2016 at 5:06 am #3587
[quote quote=3563]I fixed the problem by replacing the faulty LED with a new one.
For future reference, it might be worth noting that I used a SK6812 LED and not a WS2812B. I believe the SK6812 is a newer clone of the WS2812B. However they both use the same protocol so they work well together.
Hey man, I looked into that LED model and it does sound like a good alternative. However, this blog post made me worry for you: http://blog.bambooraygun.com/post/136666273994/sk6812-left-and-topvs-ws2812-running-from-the
The two LEDs do have some different tech specs despite being compatible. Are you sure you want to keep them running together?May 13, 2016 at 10:12 am #3588
Officially I stick to WS2812B RGB LED.
I know there are lots of different parts out there compatible with my PCBs.
But I have to research and test them.
hhu94’s problem is not due to wrong model but broken LED.
Though his opinion is very good, I can’t accept it as official solution.
Anyway thank hhu94.
I also want to try it.July 9, 2016 at 7:16 pm #4086
[quote quote=3522]I am very interested in how Ubernooby ended up resolving this issue. [/quote]
I know this reply is a couple of months late, but I only now looked through the forum, because I’ve repeatedly had this same recurring issue. The first time it happened and I started this thread, I eventually sent the board in for repair, thinking it was the controller after replacing the 9th and 10th SMDs. About three weeks after getting it back, the 11th SMD went out, so that time, I replaced it and the board was fine. Just yesterday, the 7th SMD apparently went out, so it looks like I’ll be breaking out the soldering iron and magnifying glass once again.
Each time it has happened, the board acts exactly as hhu94’s posted video shows: all SMDs after the faulty one breaking the chain either stay dark if set to a solid color, or flash wildly if set to any type of pattern.
I’m going to try an SK6812 this time and see how it works in the long run, so thank you for the suggestion, hhu94!
The forum ‘QnA’ is closed to new topics and replies.