[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

I think you got a set screws correctly.

You need Popnut, 10mm and 8mm bolts.(Please see here http://blog.winkeyless.kr/207)

Could you show me what you have?

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

* Edit:At the moment all bolts are 10mm.

• This reply was modified 7 years, 10 months ago by  flashteker@gmail.com.

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

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[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

Thanks for your interests in my products.

If you get switches and stabilizers from other source, yes your order is perfect.
And you don’t have to solder anything if you use holtites.

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

It says it is compatible with FaceU.

If then, so does B.face.

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

The unit “T” is almost same as “mm”.

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Also see this http://imgur.com/a/0y2i2

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

They shared the opinions on whether to mod their cases for the RGB LEDs installed on B.face PCB.

So actually the list shows cases to fit B.face.

In the case of Tex case you don’t have to modify it if you don’t use RGB LEDs.

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

Please see this : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76809.msg1952384#msg1952384

– Anything Tex would have to be modified
– Stock pok3r cases may also need modding
– Basically anything with the horizontal stiffener ridges would need modification
– Lambo 60% will work (at least I hope so, since thats what i bought)
– Cases from Ziptyze (the 3d printed ones) should not need modding

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

 

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

Really sorry…

Now I’m not sure when to re-offer aluminum plate.

You can download all CAD files here http://blog.winkeyless.kr/208.

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

* Diodes are used for switches. So it is necessary regardless of RGB LEDs

* Resistors are only for in-switch LEDs. So you don’t need them if you don’t want in-switch LEDs.

For more details, please visit here :http://winkeyless.kr/the-stuffs-to-make-keyboard/

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

 

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

Here I attached a price break-down.

– it doesn’t include in-switch LED($13 for white, holtitle($23)

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

 

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[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

^_-

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Oh I see.

Like the green line in the photo I attached, connect the 2 points.

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

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[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

Sorry for your inconvenience.

Anyway… How did you know those 2 pads were broken?

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

No.

All layers are of acrylic.

 

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

When you choose a housing case(http://winkeyless.kr/product/bbb_acrylic-case-with-rgb-diffuser/),
layer 1 will act as a plate.

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

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[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

 

1) Yes. Diodes has polarity. It will make a problem when soldered in wrong direction.

2) LL4148 or 1N4148W

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

I can’t tell exactly what makes your problem.

Judging from your photo, I think there would be a lot of bad solderings.

Please visit here and compare with your soldering : http://winkeyless.kr/soldering-guide/

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

 

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi KFJ.

Yes it’s possible.

For B.mini, each layer is $15.
But delivery fee is
– K-packet : $10
– DHL:$26

 

Do you want only layer 5?
Don’t you need layer 5-1?

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

This reply has been marked as private.

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

I guess you didn’t map FN2 toggle key to FN2 layer.

Or you can press “ESC+Backspace” to go back to normal layer.

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Diodes are used for switches.

I don’t think it is the reason for the problem.

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Okay. I will change them as you wish.

And next time when you have any question on your order,

please send me an email(flashteker@gmail.com) with order number(W5510)

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi Kenny.

If the switches and in-switch LEDs were soldered already,
you should desolder them.

If they were installed by hot-swap sockets,
you don’t have to do that.
(https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5aghci/buying_group_buy_for_hot_swap_connectors/)

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Judging from the symptom, I am sure there is a electric short.

There is no other way but cleaning the soldering points with that short.
You should find out where they are.

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

I think the value of currency is correct.

Around 5mA is maximum for a in-switch LED.

You should check your in-switch LED how bright it makes when it has 5 mA currency.

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

 

Hi
If you want for the LEDs of Lock keys to be full LED(not indicator),
please loot at  the page http://winkeyless.kr/soldering-guide/ in which you can find “Resistors to make Scroll Lock and Num Lock LED as Full LED”

If you solder them like the pic(horizontally), they act as indicators. If vertically, as full LED.

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

Could you try to turn off all RGB LEDs and then test it?

If the brightness is still dim, you should check in-switch LEDs.
(Could you tell me the model?)

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

[flashteker@gmail.comMember]

Hi

We recommend 820 ohm resistors as the lowest one,
since our PCB supports both in-switch LED and RGB LED.
USB has a currency limit.
If you set in-switch LED too bright, it doesn’t anything but would-be malfunction.

Probably you can set the brightness by using bootmapperclient.(http://blog.winkeyless.kr/183)

Thanks.
Hojin.Yi

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