[LunarisDreamParticipant]

[quote quote=3563]I fixed the problem by replacing the faulty LED with a new one.

For future reference, it might be worth noting that I used a SK6812 LED and not a WS2812B. I believe the SK6812 is a newer clone of the WS2812B. However they both use the same protocol so they work well together.

[/quote]

Hey man, I looked into that LED model and it does sound like a good alternative. However, this blog post made me worry for you: http://blog.bambooraygun.com/post/136666273994/sk6812-left-and-topvs-ws2812-running-from-the

The two LEDs do have some different tech specs despite being compatible. Are you sure you want to keep them running together?

[LunarisDreamParticipant]

Gateron clears have always been 35g linear. They’re not similar to MX Clears at all.

[LunarisDreamParticipant]

If that’s true, it might be worth adding to the FAQ. More and more people will be using Windows 10 in the future so this problem will keep happening and prompt more questions.

[LunarisDreamParticipant]

Yo OP, I had almost the exact same problem. The cause of it was bad soldering around a couple of the pins of a single RGB LED. Unfortunately, I don’t know if there’s a way to check with a multimeter, and your best bet would be to reflow and/or clean up the solder around the pads for RGB LEDs that appear to have messy soldering. Make sure the solder isn’t connecting different pads, and that all solder joints evenly cover the pads on the PCB and the legs of the RGB LEDs. Add more if it looks like there aren’t enough, and add a bit to ones that you feel like are barely enough, because I had a couple joints that seemed like they were fully covered but needed more solder.

Good luck.

[LunarisDreamParticipant]

That 27 minute response time is really impressive 🙂

[LunarisDreamParticipant]

Excellent. Thank you very much for your help!

[LunarisDreamParticipant]

And also, one more quick question: what type of stabilizers do your B.87 PCBs use? Plate-mounted or PCB-mounted?

Thanks!

[LunarisDreamParticipant]

Could you please double check your description of the R and non-R PCBs?

In the description, you said that the one with “R” has the LEDs at the bottom of the switch, but then you gave a picture of the “non-R version”. In your product page for the “R” version (http://winkeyless.kr/product/b-87r-x2-pcb/), you have the LED holes north of the switch.

For the second half of the description, you said the one without “R” has the LEDs north of the switch, but then said <R version> after that w/ a picture.

[LunarisDreamParticipant]

Thank you for your prompt response! Expect a purchase from me very soon. 🙂

[Author]

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